FOOD & DRINK
Twiggy review: Dubai’s best new restaurant
Words by Rob Chilton
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For many, Twiggy was the face of the 1960s with that famous cropped hairstyle. The British model captured the mood of that revolutionary era with her style, her attitude and her fresh look, all of which are reasons why Twiggy is such an appropriate inspiration for 2021’s best new Dubai restaurant.
A half-sister of the brilliant La Cantine du Faubourg in Emirates Towers , Twiggy is an open-air, first floor restaurant with a French/Mediterranean influence. It adjoins the Park Hyatt, a hotel that continues to be a trendsetting destination with cool places where people want to go and eat and be seen – Noepe just around the corner on the waterfront is a prime example.
Twiggy, though, has raised the bar yet again with a stunning new spot overlooking not only the hotel’s lagoon but also Dubai Creek. A stylish yet informal crowd – the PR team for Christian Dior took up a big table the night EDGAR went for dinner – chatted, laughed and shared plates of thoughtfully-prepared food under gorgeous amber lighting coming from enormous wicker shades. Staff dressed in beige and white with white sneakers were friendly and fun and were rushed off their feet in this packed restaurant on a weekday night.
Wagyu short ribs were frighteningly expensive at AED 245 but – boy – were they worth it. Thanks to a honey glaze, the cubes had a slightly crunchy exterior that gave way to the most divine beef inside. With one cube remaining on the plate, most people would have relinquished it to their companion, but for these short ribs, there was no such deal. “Cut it in half,” came the firm instruction from EDGAR’s guest.
A salad of leaves, walnut, beetroot, goat’s cheese and orange (AED 87) was a lovely blend of texture, flavour and colour. Linguine with salty clams (AED 145) and a curl of meaty, succulent grilled octopus (AED 150) showed that the chefs at Twiggy have sourced seafood of excellent quality and are happy to cook it simply and let the food speak for itself.
To finish, the manager suggested the profiteroles. EDGAR’s eyes lit up at the thought of choux pastry, cream and chocolate but again, our dinner companion put her foot down and insisted on the lemon meringue tart (AED 105). It was so big it required a side table upon which the waiter cut it in two and slid the halves onto our plates. “We can’t eat all that,” we protested (gently) but the waiter grinned and gave us a wink that told us we should give it a try. After one mouthful of the crispy base, tart lemon filling and chewy meringue topping, we understood why he was right to encourage us – it was gone in a French flash.
Twiggy has all the style you could wish for, but is backed up by good food plus a laidback spirit and a dynamic energy taken straight from its 1960s namesake.
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